DGX Premium Pro Standalone Valve, Right (Typical Side)
This is a NON-modular (aka "standalone") valve that cannot later be used with modular components such as H-adapters and manifold crossbars.
DGX Premium Pro Standalone Valve, Right (Typical Side)
- Standard 0.750-14 NPSM (3/4 NPS) neck threads
- DIN outlet can accept Yoke inserts (sold separately)
- Nitrox Ready - Chromed Brass Construction
- Valves have a 5250 psi burst disk
DGX Premium Valves are Nitrox Ready, using oxygen compatible materials and when sealed in the original factory packaging is also free of organic and particle contamination. The valves have DIN outlets that can accept optional removable inserts (sold separately) so the valves may be used with yoke connectors. You may see this style of outlet variously described as Pro, 200-Bar DIN (G 5/8 BSP), or 232-Bar DIN. All these different names apply to exactly the same style valve outlet, which is suitable for use with the 3442 psi service pressure cylinders and any DIN style regulator or (with the addition of an optional insert) converted for any yoke style regulator. Inlets have standard 0.750-14 NPSM (3/4 NPS) neck threads for use with all modern aluminum and steel SCUBA tanks and include a threaded 'dip tube' with hex opening for easy installation. Valves have a 5250 psi burst disk.
The DGX Premium valves include a nearly indestructible handwheel made from soft rubber formed around a stainless steel insert. The stainless steel insert ensures positive operation with long-lasting life. The large ribs make it easy to open or close the valve even while wearing gloves. The rubber with stainless steel insert handwheel design is the preferred choice of technical divers. The black color handwheel is standard, and several optional handwheel colors are available.
Most Helpful Customer Reviews
What can you say..
on 5 March, 2019Works as expected. Good price.
DGX Premium Pro Standalone Valve
on 24 February, 2019I bought a used Steel 72 and AL 80 tank. These valves are perfect for my use (I also bought the plug inserts) - I have both yoke and Din 1st stages.
Came on time and they work great - the next owner in 20 years should be real happy after I am done using them. lol
Order the insert too.
on 17 October, 2018These valves are on all my tanks. No problems, great price. Just make sure you buy the yoke insert at the same time. I keep forgetting and have to order it separately.
Good quality and value
on 25 January, 2018Good quality valve and great service from DGX as always. - even on the other side of the world (Australia)
dgx premium pro valve, right
on 27 February, 2017I have used these valves for a few years and love them. They are replacing Thermo valves as they become damaged. I find them easier to carry the tanks! They look great and always function smoothly. Delivery is fast and reliable. Great service and great product.
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Uncoupling DIN Fittings From SCUBA Valves
There is more to disconnecting a DIN fitting from a valve than you might imagine. Do it incorrectly and you will probably lose an o-ring and perhaps even need to have your regulator serviced. The o-ring popping out of the nose of the DIN fitting is an issue on scuba regulators and fill whip hoses and it is caused by failing to completely bleed residual pressure before uncoupling the fitting.
When divers are unscrewing DIN fittings on first stages they may encounter the issue when hoses are longer than typical sport lengths or especially with oxygen compatible designs that must include flow restrictions for high-pressure gas. Briefly purging the second stage just once is not enough, residual pressure trapped in the high-pressure hose of the SPG will take several seconds to move all the way back through the regulator first stage to the second stage. You must wait a moment between each time you push the purge and you must do it three times in a row to fully release all the pressure from the hoses. Another equally effective two-handed technique is to continue to hold the second stage purge down in one hand while you begin to unscrew the DIN fitting using the other hand.
On fill whips, you can be certain all the pressure is released by opening the bleed and waiting a few extra seconds before starting to unscrew the fitting. You need to wait a moment after the hiss stops, because the bleed hole is tiny and gas will continue to escape even after the hissing stops. Compact ring-style bleeds found on fill whips that twist either direction to bleed are popular because you can't lose the bleed screw, but with this design you must make sure the ring is centered on the bleed opening because if you keep twisting you will close it again with out fully bleeding the hose.
DIN fitting designs use a two or three part assembly in which the threaded component with a handwheel collar slides onto a hollow center post and is retained by a 'nose cap' that contains the sealing DIN o-ring on the front and a smaller o-ring on the back. Improperly unscrewing the collared threads by rocking the entire assembly back and forth, or just using brute force to 'break' the seal can eventually can loosen the center post and/or nose cap causing a leak or seal failure the next time you try to use the fitting. We've seen the loosened nose cap act as a 'locking' mechanism, resulting in the fitting becoming frozen in to the DIN outlet and impossible to remove. Sometimes you can 'save-a-dive' by using a hex wrench to hand tighten the DIN assembly but a loose assembly is nearly impossible to permanently correct in the field and usually requires bench service to be able to fully tighten and lock the assembly back in place.
Proper technique to uncouple a DIN fitting requires you be careful to only turn the collar in the DIN fitting, don't grab and turn the entire assembly. If you can't easily turn just the collar to unscrew, i.e. you have to use force on the the entire assembly to 'break' the seal, then the line is not fully depressurized and you need to repeat the bleed.